When it comes to the pleated skirt, three names come to mind: Spanish designer Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo (1871-1949), French designer Madame Grès (1903-1993), and Japanese designer Issey Miyake. Elegant and graphic, it has often been associated with schoolgirls, with many schools making it part of their uniform.
Who Invented Permanent Pleating?
Permanent pleating was invented by Mariano Fortuny, who even gave it his name. But it was above all in France, with Madame Grès, that the pleated skirt truly took off: her wide, deep pleats, worked in several fabrics, laid the groundwork for Empire-style draped gowns. Issey Miyake, for his part, created the 'Pleats Please' line, which was adapted to the movements of dancers at the Frankfurt Opera in 1992.
What Styles Suit the Pleated Skirt?
Long, in flowing, supple fabrics, it becomes romantic and bohemian, especially when paired with leather and wooden jewellery. Short, it takes on a more retro or rock 'n' roll feel, depending on whether it's paired with a blouse (studious look) or a leather jacket (trendy look).
Why Is the Pleated Skirt Coming Back into Fashion?
Relegated to the back of the wardrobe, the pleated skirt becomes fashionable again as soon as you know what to pair it with: long for a chic evening out with a silk blouse and a pearl necklace; short or long for a walk in the woods or a picnic, with a knotted top; short, with a simple cotton T-shirt and ankle boots, for a concert. It is also said to suit women with curvier figures but a slim waist, since it camouflages wide hips. The sunray pleated skirt, with narrow pleats that fan out towards the hem, is particularly prized by designers today.
What Are the Different Types of Skirts?
| Skirt Type | Characteristics |
|---|---|
| Classic (straight) skirt | Associated with the tailored suit, slit at the side or back for freedom of movement |
| Flared (umbrella) skirt | Thick fabric, wide enough to form a full circle, slimming and hides the hips |
| Culotte skirt | Created for horse riding or cycling, originally long and full, later shortened for sport |
| Pleated skirt | Associated with the 'girlish' style, widely worn in Asia, synthetic fabrics that hold the pleat |
| Wrap skirt | A strip of fabric that closes by crossing over at the front or side, practical and light, ideal for summer |
